The Ultimate 2025 Guide: 7 Steps to Convert a Natural Gas Cooker to LPG

Abstract

The conversion of a domestic cooking appliance from natural gas to liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) is a technical procedure requiring a nuanced understanding of gas properties and meticulous attention to safety. This process fundamentally involves modifying the appliance to accommodate the higher energy density and pressure of LPG compared to natural gas. Key technical adjustments include replacing the gas orifices (jets) with smaller ones to restrict fuel flow and reconfiguring the pressure regulator to deliver gas at the appropriate level, typically around 11 inches of water column for propane. Proper adjustment of the burner's air shutters is also necessary to ensure complete and efficient combustion, characterized by a stable, blue flame. The entire process hinges upon the use of a manufacturer-approved conversion kit specific to the appliance model. Failure to execute these steps with precision can lead to hazardous conditions, including gas leaks, carbon monoxide production, and fire. Therefore, while the conversion is mechanically straightforward, it demands a high degree of competence and adherence to safety protocols, with professional verification being a strongly recommended final step.

Key Takeaways

• Always verify your cooker is convertible by checking the manual or manufacturer's label.
• Use only the manufacturer-specified kit to convert a natural gas cooker to LPG.
• Replace all gas orifices (jets) with the smaller ones provided in the conversion kit.
• Adjust the pressure regulator to the correct setting for LPG, usually 11" WC.
• Thoroughly test for gas leaks using a soap and water solution after the conversion.
• Adjust the air shutters on each burner to achieve a stable, blue flame.
• Consider hiring a qualified gas technician for safety and peace of mind.

Table of Contents

• Step 1: Foundational Knowledge – Understanding the Gas Dichotomy
• Step 2: The Compatibility Check – Is Your Cooker a Candidate?
• Step 3: Assembling Your Toolkit – The Conversion Kit and Essential Gear
• Step 4: The Heart of the Matter – Replacing the Orifices (Jets)
• Step 5: Regulating the Flow – Adjusting the Pressure Regulator
• Step 6: Fine-Tuning the Flame – Air Shutter and Low-Flame Adjustments
• Step 7: Final Checks and Leak Testing – The Litmus Test of Safety

Step 1: Foundational Knowledge – Understanding the Gas Dichotomy

Before one can even contemplate the physical act of modifying an appliance, a deeper, almost philosophical, appreciation for the materials involved is paramount. We are not merely swapping one fuel for another; we are adapting a finely tuned system to a substance with a different nature. To convert a natural gas cooker to LPG is to engage in a dialogue with the principles of chemistry and physics. The success and safety of this endeavor rest entirely on understanding the fundamental differences between these two gaseous fuels.

Think of it like this: a car engine designed for standard gasoline cannot run efficiently or safely on high-octane racing fuel without significant modification. The energy content, the delivery pressure, and the air-to-fuel ratio are all different. The same logic applies with profound gravity to gas cookers.

The Chemical Composition: Methane vs. Propane/Butane

At its core, natural gas is predominantly methane (CH₄). It is the simplest hydrocarbon, light and clean-burning. It is delivered to homes through a vast network of underground pipes at a relatively low pressure. Its chemical simplicity makes it burn readily with a specific amount of oxygen shivgas.com.

Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG), on the other hand, is a different beast altogether. It is primarily a mix of propane (C₃H₈) and butane (C₄H₁₀). These are more complex molecules than methane. They are stored under pressure in a liquid state in tanks or cylinders, reverting to a gas as the pressure is released. This very nature of being a compressed liquid gives it a different character. The key takeaway here is that for the same volume, LPG contains significantly more energy potential than natural gas.

Energy Density and Pressure: Why LPG Needs Different Jets

This brings us to the most critical concept in this conversion: energy density. A cubic foot of propane contains roughly 2,500 British Thermal Units (BTUs) of energy. A cubic foot of natural gas contains only about 1,000 BTUs. LPG is more than twice as energy-dense.

Now, imagine the small brass fittings inside your cooker that the gas flows through just before it reaches the burner. These are called orifices or jets. Their sole purpose is to release a precise, measured amount of gas to be mixed with air for combustion. The size of the tiny hole drilled through the center of the orifice is calculated for a specific gas at a specific pressure.

A natural gas cooker is designed for a low-pressure, low-energy-density fuel. Its orifices have relatively large openings to allow enough fuel through to produce a hot flame. If you were to force high-pressure, high-energy-density LPG through that same large opening, the result would be a dangerously large, inefficient, and soot-producing flame. You would be releasing far too much fuel.

This is why the central act of the conversion is to replace the natural gas orifices with LPG orifices. The LPG orifices have much smaller holes, restricting the flow to release the correct amount of this more potent fuel. It is a matter of calibration and respect for the fuel's power.

Caraterística	Natural Gas	Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)
Primary Composition	Methane (CH₄)	Propane (C₃H₈), Butane (C₄H₁₀)
Energy Content (BTU/ft³)	~1,000	~2,500 (Propane)
Delivery State	Gaseous	Liquid under pressure
Typical Appliance Pressure	3.5" – 7" Water Column (WC)	11" – 14" Water Column (WC)
Relative Density (to air)	Lighter than air (~0.6)	Heavier than air (~1.5-2.0)
Orifice Size Requirement	Larger	Smaller

The Safety Dimension: Gas Weight and Ventilation

The final piece of this foundational puzzle is a matter of safety and physics. Natural gas is lighter than air. If a leak occurs, the gas will rise and dissipate, assuming there is some ventilation. LPG, being composed of heavier molecules, is denser than air. In the event of a leak, it will not rise. Instead, it will sink and pool in low-lying areas—along the floor, in a basement, or in the cabinet beneath the cooker. This creates a hidden, concentrated pocket of flammable gas that can be ignited by a spark from a refrigerator motor, a water heater pilot light, or even static electricity.

This property demands a heightened sense of vigilance and awareness. It underscores the absolute necessity of proper ventilation and meticulous leak testing. When you work with LPG, you must be conscious of where the gas would go if it escaped. This is not to inspire fear, but to cultivate a deep respect for the material you are handling. Understanding this difference is a non-negotiable prerequisite for anyone attempting to convert a natural gas cooker to LPG.

Step 2: The Compatibility Check – Is Your Cooker a Candidate?

Not all journeys are possible. Before you gather your tools or order a single part, you must first ask a fundamental question: "Can this specific cooker even be converted?" The assumption that any gas appliance can be switched from one fuel to another is a dangerous fallacy. Manufacturers design appliances with specific tolerances, materials, and safety certifications. Attempting to convert an appliance not designed for it is a direct path to failure and hazard.

Consulting the Manufacturer's Manual: The First Port of Call

The appliance's manual is its foundational text, its constitution. It is the most authoritative source of information regarding its capabilities and limitations. Somewhere within its pages, often in the installation or technical specifications section, the manufacturer will explicitly state whether the cooker is convertible. It might say something like, "This appliance is configured for natural gas but is convertible to LPG using kit number XYZ." Or, it may state unequivocally, "This appliance is for use with natural gas only. Do not attempt to convert."

This document is your primary guide. If the manual is lost to time, a search on the manufacturer's website using the model number of your cooker will almost always yield a digital copy. Do not proceed one step further until you have located and read this information. It is the manufacturer who has tested the appliance, who understands its design, and who has received the safety certifications from bodies like UL or CE. Their word is law.

Identifying Appliance Markings and Certifications

In addition to the manual, the cooker itself holds clues. Look for a data plate or sticker. This is usually located in a semi-hidden but accessible spot: inside the oven door, on the back of the appliance, or under the cooktop. This plate is the cooker's birth certificate. It will list the model number, serial number, and, crucially, the type of gas it was certified for at the factory.

Often, you will see a statement indicating its convertible nature. It might show pressure ratings for both NG (Natural Gas) and LP (Liquid Propane). If the plate only lists specifications for natural gas and makes no mention of LP or conversion, it is a strong indicator that it is not designed to be converted. Some modern appliances even have a QR code that links directly to the product's support page, which can provide a wealth of information. Taking the time to perform this archaeological dig on your own appliance is an act of due diligence that cannot be skipped.

When Conversion Isn't an Option: Recognizing the Limits

There are several reasons a manufacturer might designate a cooker as non-convertible.

1. Valve Design: The gas valves that control the flow to the burners may be designed with materials or tolerances that are only safe for the lower pressure and chemical composition of natural gas. LPG might corrode them or simply not be properly controlled by them.
2. Burner Design: The shape, porting, and material of the burners themselves may be optimized solely for natural gas combustion. Using LPG could lead to "flame lifting" (where the flame detaches from the burner) or "flashback" (where the flame burns back into the burner tube), both of which are hazardous.
3. Lack of a Certified Kit: If the manufacturer does not produce and sell an official conversion kit for that model, it means they have not tested and certified the conversion process. Using a third-party or "universal" kit on such an appliance is a gamble with your safety. The manufacturer has not validated that it works correctly.

If you discover your cooker cannot be converted, the path forward is clear, albeit perhaps disappointing. You must not attempt the conversion. The only safe solution is to acquire an appliance specifically designed and built for LPG. Thankfully, many reputable home appliance suppliers offer a wide selection of cookers factory-built for LPG use. Forcing an incompatible appliance to work is not a sign of ingenuity; it is an invitation for disaster.

Step 3: Assembling Your Toolkit – The Conversion Kit and Essential Gear

Once you have confirmed that your cooker is indeed a candidate for conversion, the next phase of the process begins: gathering the necessary materials. This is not a task to be taken lightly. The quality and correctness of your tools and parts are directly proportional to the safety and success of the outcome. Think of a surgeon preparing for an operation; every instrument is specific, sterilized, and laid out in order. Your approach should be no different.

Sourcing the Correct Propane Conversion Kit

The single most important item you will procure is the propane conversion kit. This is not a place for improvisation or approximation. You must use the exact kit specified by the manufacturer for your cooker's specific model number. As noted by industry professionals, a conversion requires care and the right propane conversion kit to ensure proper air flow and max output industrykitchens.com.au.

Why such rigidity? A manufacturer's kit contains parts that have been tested together on that exact appliance.

• The Orifices: The kit will include a set of precisely drilled brass orifices, one for each burner (including the oven and broiler, if applicable). These are not generic; the hole size is calculated for the specific BTU rating of each individual burner on that model.
• The Regulator Spring/Pin: It will contain the necessary part to convert the pressure regulator—often a new spring or a reversible pin.
• Labels: A proper kit includes new labels to affix to the appliance, indicating that it has been converted to LPG. This is a critical safety step for any future service technician or homeowner.
• Instructions: The kit will include instructions that supplement the main appliance manual, often with diagrams specific to the conversion process.

Do not be tempted by "universal" kits. While they may seem convenient, they are a significant risk. The orifice sizes may not be correct for your burners, leading to poor performance and dangerous combustion. Always order the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) kit from the manufacturer or an authorized parts dealer.

Essential Tools for a Safe and Successful Conversion

With the correct kit in hand, you must now assemble your tools. Having the right tool for the job prevents stripped screws, damaged parts, and immense frustration.

Tool Category	Specific Tools	Purpose
Safety Equipment	Safety Glasses, Work Gloves	Protects eyes from debris and hands from sharp edges.
Wrenches & Drivers	Adjustable Wrenches (2), Nut Driver Set (metric/imperial), Screwdriver Set (Phillips/flathead)	For disconnecting the gas line, removing screws, and turning orifices. A nut driver is often essential for reaching recessed orifices.
Leak Detection	Spray Bottle with Soap/Water Solution	For safely and effectively checking all gas connections for leaks.
Cleaning Supplies	Soft Cloths, Degreaser, Small Brush	For cleaning the cooktop, burners, and parts before reassembly.
Specialty Tool	Gas Manometer (Optional but highly recommended)	Measures gas pressure to verify the regulator is set correctly. Essential for professional-level work.

The importance of having two adjustable wrenches cannot be overstated. When you disconnect the flexible gas line from the wall or the cooker, you must use one wrench to hold the fitting steady while using the second wrench to turn the nut. This technique, known as "backing up" the fitting, prevents you from twisting and damaging the gas pipes themselves.

Creating a Safe Workspace: Preparation is Paramount

Before a single screw is turned, you must prepare the environment. Safety is not a single step but an overarching context for the entire procedure.

1. Shut Off the Gas: This is the absolute first action. Go to the main gas shut-off valve for the appliance. The handle should be turned so it is perpendicular (at a 90-degree angle) to the gas pipe. This indicates it is closed.
2. Disconnect Power: Even though it is a gas appliance, modern cookers have electric igniters, lights, and control panels. Unplug the cooker from the wall outlet or turn off the corresponding circuit breaker. You want to eliminate any potential ignition source.
3. Ventilate the Area: Open windows and doors to ensure good airflow. This helps dissipate any residual gas that may be released when you disconnect the line.
4. Clear the Space: Remove any flammable materials, clutter, or obstacles from around the cooker. You need clear, unimpeded access to the back and underside of the appliance.
5. Have a Fire Extinguisher Ready: Ensure you have a functional, appropriate class of fire extinguisher (e.g., ABC rated) nearby and that you know how to use it. This is a common-sense precaution for any work involving fuel.

By methodically preparing your workspace, you are cultivating an environment of control and safety. You are demonstrating respect for the potential energy you are about to work with. This preparation is not a preliminary chore; it is an integral part of the conversion itself.

Step 4: The Heart of the Matter – Replacing the Orifices (Jets)

We now arrive at the most tangible and delicate part of the operation: the replacement of the gas orifices. This is the physical act that adapts the cooker to the new fuel. It is a process that demands patience, a steady hand, and a methodical approach. Each burner on your cooker, from the smallest simmer burner to the powerful oven burner, has its own orifice that must be exchanged.

Imagine you are performing a series of miniature transplants. You are removing a component designed for one purpose and replacing it with one designed for another. The success of the entire system depends on each individual transplant being performed correctly.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Accessing and Removing Natural Gas Orifices

First, you must gain access to the orifices. For the cooktop burners, this typically involves the following sequence:

1. Remove Burner Grates and Caps: Lift off the heavy iron grates that pots sit on. Then, lift off the burner caps (the flat, circular plates that the flame comes out from under) and the burner heads (the aluminum or brass pieces the caps sit on). This will expose the base of the cooktop.
2. Lift the Cooktop: Most cooktops are hinged at the back and can be propped up like the hood of a car. Some may be held down by clips or screws at the front. Consult your manual for the specific method. Once propped open, you will see the gas tubes leading to the burner bases.
3. Locate the Orifices: Look down into the center of each burner base. You will see a small, brass, nut-like fitting at the very bottom, where the gas tube ends. That is the orifice. The gas flows up through the tiny hole in its center.
4. Select the Right Tool: This is where a nut driver becomes invaluable. The orifices are often recessed inside the burner base, making them difficult to reach with a standard socket or wrench. Find the correct size nut driver (commonly 7mm or a similar size) that fits snugly over the orifice.
5. Remove the Orifice: Fit the nut driver over the orifice and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it. They are usually made of soft brass, so apply firm, even pressure to avoid stripping the head. Keep track of which orifice came from which burner, as they may be different sizes.

For the oven and broiler burners, the process is more involved. It often requires removing the oven floor, heat shields, and sometimes partially removing the burner tube itself to access the orifice located where the gas supply line meets the burner. This part of the process can be particularly challenging and is a point where many DIY attempts falter. Again, your manual is your indispensable map.

Installing the New LPG Orifices: Precision is Key

Your conversion kit should have a set of new orifices. They are often stamped with a number that corresponds to the drill size of the hole. The kit's instructions should tell you which numbered orifice goes with which burner (e.g., "Use orifice #52 for the front right burner").

1. Match Orifice to Burner: Carefully identify the correct new LPG orifice for the burner you are working on. Do not mix them up. Installing the wrong orifice on a burner will result in poor performance and potentially unsafe operation.
2. Thread by Hand: Take the new orifice and carefully thread it into the burner base by hand. This is crucial to ensure it is not cross-threaded. A cross-threaded orifice will leak gas and may damage the cooker permanently. It should turn easily for the first few rotations.
3. Tighten with the Nut Driver: Once it is hand-tight, use your nut driver to snug it down. Turn it clockwise until it is firm. Do not over-tighten. You are threading soft brass into an aluminum or steel base; excessive force can strip the threads. The goal is "snug," not "strained."
4. Repeat for All Burners: Systematically repeat this process—remove old, install new—for every single burner on the appliance. This includes all cooktop burners, the oven bake burner, and the oven broil burner. Missing even one will result in one burner operating dangerously.

Troubleshooting Common Issues During Orifice Replacement

Even with careful work, you may encounter challenges.

• A Stuck Orifice: If an old orifice will not budge, do not apply excessive force. You risk breaking it or stripping the head. A small application of penetrating oil, allowed to sit for 15-20 minutes, can sometimes help break it free.
• Stripped Orifice Head: If the head of the orifice becomes stripped, removal becomes much more difficult. This is a point where it is wise to stop and call a professional. They have specialized extraction tools that can remove it without damaging the cooker.
• Dropped Orifice: It is easy to drop a tiny orifice down into the body of the cooker. Keep a magnetic retrieval tool handy. If you drop one of the new orifices and cannot find it, do not substitute it with an old one or one from a different burner. You must find it or obtain a correct replacement.

This step is the technical core of the project to convert a natural gas cooker to LPG. Take your time. Be methodical. Each correctly installed orifice is a step toward a safe and functional appliance.

Step 5: Regulating the Flow – Adjusting the Pressure Regulator

If replacing the orifices is the heart of the conversion, then adjusting the pressure regulator is the brain. The regulator's function is to take the variable, high pressure of the gas supply—whether from a city pipeline or an LPG tank—and step it down to a constant, usable pressure for the appliance. A natural gas cooker and an LPG cooker operate at different pressures. Failing to adjust the regulator is just as dangerous as failing to change the orifices.

The regulator ensures that the newly installed small orifices receive gas at the correct pressure. Without this step, the high pressure of the LPG would force even more gas than intended through the small orifices, defeating their purpose and creating a hazardous condition. It is a two-part solution: small orifices and the correct pressure working in harmony.

Locating and Identifying the Pressure Regulator

The pressure regulator is a small, rectangular or round metal component, usually made of cast aluminum. It is located where the main gas line connects to the appliance. You will need to pull the cooker away from the wall to access it. You will see the flexible gas hose connecting to a fitting, which then connects to the regulator. The regulator, in turn, is plumbed into the cooker's internal gas manifold.

The regulator itself will have some identifying marks. It will also have a cap, either a plastic screw-on type or a metal hexagonal cap. This cap protects the conversion mechanism underneath.

The Mechanics of a Regulator Conversion

Manufacturers use a few common designs for convertible regulators. Your task is to reconfigure it from the NG setting to the LP setting.

1. The Reversible Pin Method (Most Common):

   • Unscrew the cap from the regulator. Be careful, as there might be a spring underneath.
   • Under the cap, you will find a plastic or metal pin. This pin is the conversion device.
   • Examine the pin closely. On one side of its flange, you will see the letters "NG" or "NAT". On the other side, you will see "LP". The stem of the pin may also be shaped differently on each end.
   • The pin will be oriented with the "NG" side visible and engaging the spring. Carefully pull it out.
   • Flip the pin over so that the "LP" side is now facing up, ready to engage the spring.
   • Reinsert the pin into the regulator body.
   • Screw the cap back on securely.

2. The Spring Replacement Method:

   • Some older or different designs require you to change a spring inside the regulator.
   • Unscrew the cap, and you will see a spring.
   • Remove the existing natural gas spring.
   • Your conversion kit will include a new, stiffer spring for LPG. Install this new spring.
   • Replace the cap.

3. The Screw Adjustment Method:

   • Less common on modern appliances, some regulators have an adjustment screw under the cap. The instructions will specify turning this screw a certain number of rotations (e.g., "Turn clockwise until it stops") to set it for LPG.

The conversion kit's instructions, along with the manual, are your definitive guide here. They will show you exactly which type of regulator you have and how to convert it. This adjustment changes the internal mechanics of the regulator, telling it to now output a pressure of around 11 inches of Water Column (WC) for LPG, instead of the 4-7 inches WC used for natural gas.

Verifying Correct Pressure with a Manometer

How can you be certain the regulator is doing its job correctly? While most DIYers will trust that the conversion was done correctly, the professional method is to verify the pressure with a tool called a manometer. This device measures gas pressure.

• The regulator often has a small, threaded test port, sealed with a screw.
• A technician would connect the manometer to this port.
• With the gas on and a burner running, the manometer gives a direct reading of the outlet pressure.
• For LPG, this reading should be stable at around 11" WC.

While purchasing a manometer might be excessive for a one-time job, it illustrates the level of precision involved. If you have any doubts about the regulator's function, or if your flames look wrong after the conversion, this is a test that a qualified technician can perform quickly. It is the only way to be absolutely certain that the "brain" of your gas system is functioning as it should. This step, though mechanically simple, is conceptually vital. It ensures that the entire system, from tank to flame, operates in a state of controlled equilibrium.

Step 6: Fine-Tuning the Flame – Air Shutter and Low-Flame Adjustments

With the correct orifices installed and the regulator set for LPG pressure, the primary mechanical work is complete. However, the job is not yet finished. We now move from the gross mechanical changes to the fine-tuning. The goal is to perfect the combustion process—to ensure the gas mixes with the optimal amount of air to produce a clean, efficient, and safe flame. This is accomplished by adjusting the air shutters and the low-flame setting on each burner.

Think of this stage as tuning a musical instrument. The strings are on and tightened to the right general pitch (orifices and regulator), but now you must adjust each one precisely to achieve perfect harmony (a clean blue flame).

The Role of the Air Shutter in Proper Combustion

At the base of each burner, where the gas orifice injects fuel into the burner tube, there is an adjustable collar or sleeve with openings in it. This is the air shutter. Its purpose is to control how much primary air is drawn into the burner tube and mixed with the gas before it reaches the flame ports.

• Too Little Air: If the shutter is too closed, the mixture will be "rich" (too much gas, not enough air). This results in a large, lazy, yellow-tipped flame. A yellow flame is a sign of incomplete combustion. It produces soot (which will blacken your pots) and, more dangerously, carbon monoxide (CO), a poisonous gas.
• Too Much Air: If the shutter is too open, the mixture will be "lean" (too much air). This can cause the flame to be noisy, to lift off the burner ports, or even to extinguish itself.

The goal is a "neutral" flame: a stable, quiet, and mostly blue flame, perhaps with just a hint of yellow at the very tips. This indicates near-perfect combustion.

Adjusting for a Clean, Blue Flame

This adjustment must be done for each burner individually, while it is operating.

1. Reconnect and Turn On Gas: After ensuring all orifices are in and the regulator is converted, you can now reconnect the main gas line to the cooker. Use your two-wrench technique. Turn the gas supply valve back on (handle parallel to the pipe).
2. Leak Test First: Before lighting any burners, perform a preliminary leak test on the main connection you just made. Brush a 50/50 soap and water solution onto the fitting. If you see bubbles forming, you have a leak. Turn off the gas and tighten the connection.
3. Light a Burner: Turn one cooktop burner to its highest setting. It should light. Now, observe the flame. Since you've switched to LPG, it will likely be too large and yellow.
4. Adjust the Shutter: The air shutter is usually held in place by a small set screw. Loosen this screw just enough so you can rotate the shutter collar.
5. Find the Sweet Spot: While watching the flame, slowly open the air shutter. You will see the yellow disappear and the flame become bluer and more defined. Continue opening it until the flame starts to get noisy or lift off the burner. Then, close it back just slightly until the flame is stable and blue again.
6. Tighten the Set Screw: Once you have found the perfect spot, carefully tighten the set screw to lock the shutter in place.
7. Repeat for All Burners: You must repeat this tuning process for every single cooktop burner. The oven and broiler burners also have air shutters that must be adjusted in the same way, which can be more difficult to access and observe.

Setting the Simmer: The Low-Flame Screw Adjustment

The final piece of fine-tuning is the low-flame, or simmer, setting. You need to ensure that when you turn the burner to its lowest setting, the flame is stable and does not extinguish.

1. Locate the Adjustment Screw: Inside the hollow stem of each burner control knob shaft, there is a tiny adjustment screw. You will need a very thin, long-shafted flathead screwdriver to reach it.
2. Set to Low: Turn the burner on high, then turn the knob down to the lowest possible setting.
3. Observe the Flame: The flame should be very small but stable, with each port lit. If the flame is too high on the low setting, or if it goes out, it needs adjustment.
4. Adjust the Screw: With the burner still on low, insert your thin screwdriver into the valve stem and engage the screw.
   • Turning the screw clockwise will typically decrease the flame size.
   • Turning it counter-clockwise will increase it.
5. Test the Stability: Make the adjustment until you have a tiny, stable flame. Then, quickly turn the knob from high to low several times. The flame should not go out. If it does, the low setting is too low; increase it slightly.

This meticulous process of adjusting shutters and simmer screws transforms your converted cooker from a functional device into a finely calibrated cooking instrument. It is the step that ensures safety, efficiency, and performance for years to come. It requires a patient eye and a feel for the dynamics of combustion, a true dialogue between the operator and the machine.

Step 7: Final Checks and Leak Testing – The Litmus Test of Safety

You have journeyed through the theory, navigated the mechanical changes, and fine-tuned the flames. Now, you stand at the threshold of completion. This final step is arguably the most important of all. It is the comprehensive safety audit of your work. Every connection made, every fitting tightened, must be verified. To skip or rush this stage is to invalidate all the careful work that came before. It is the final, solemn promise you make to the safety of your home and family.

The Soap and Water Test: A Non-Negotiable Safety Protocol

The most reliable, time-tested method for detecting gas leaks is simple, cheap, and effective: a solution of soap and water.

1. Prepare the Solution: Mix a 50/50 solution of dish soap and water in a spray bottle or a small bowl. You want it to be bubbly.
2. Pressurize the System: Ensure the main gas supply to the cooker is turned on. The entire system of pipes and valves within the cooker is now pressurized with LPG.
3. Apply the Solution Methodically: This is not the time for haste. You must apply the solution to every single gas-carrying connection you have touched or that exists on the appliance. This includes:
   • The main connection where the flexible hose meets the cooker's regulator.
   • The connection where the regulator meets the cooker's manifold.
   • The base of every single orifice you replaced. Brush the solution around the burner base where the orifice is seated.
   • The fittings for the oven and broiler gas lines.
   • The stems of the control valves (where the knobs attach).
4. Look for Bubbles: Watch each connection carefully for a few moments after applying the solution. If a leak is present, the escaping gas will blow bubbles in the soap film. These can be large, fast-forming bubbles or a slow, tiny froth. Any bubble formation indicates a leak.
5. Act Immediately if a Leak is Found: If you see bubbles, immediately turn off the main gas supply valve. Do not proceed. Go back to the leaking connection, disassemble it, check the threads, reassemble it, and tighten it properly. Then, turn the gas back on and test again. Do not stop until every single connection is tested and shows no bubbles.

This test is your seal of approval. It is the empirical evidence that your work is gas-tight and secure.

Observing Burner Performance: What to Look For

With the leak test passed, you can now conduct a final performance review of the burners. Turn each burner on, one by one, and cycle it through its full range, from high to low.

• Ignition: Does the burner light quickly and smoothly?
• Flame on High: Is the flame on the high setting strong, stable, and predominantly blue? It should not be lifting off the burner or making a loud roaring sound.
• Flame on Low (Simmer): When turned to low, is the flame small but completely stable? Does it stay lit when you gently blow on it?
• Transition: As you turn the knob from high to low and back again, does the flame respond smoothly without extinguishing or flaring up?

Repeat this for all cooktop burners, the oven bake burner, and the broiler. The oven burner can be observed by removing the bottom drawer or panel. A properly converted and tuned cooker will exhibit confident, controlled performance across its entire range of operation. This shows that your work has resulted not just in a safe appliance, but a well-performing one.

The Importance of Professional Verification

At this point, you have completed the full conversion process to the best of your ability. For many, this is the end of the project. However, there is a final layer of assurance that embodies the highest commitment to safety: professional verification.

Consider calling a licensed and qualified gas technician to inspect your work. This is not an admission of failure but an act of ultimate prudence. A professional can:

• Perform a Manometer Test: As discussed, they can use a manometer to confirm the regulator outlet pressure is exactly at the 11" WC specification for LPG.
• Use an Electronic Gas Detector: They have sensitive electronic "sniffers" that can detect minute gas leaks that even a soap test might miss.
• Conduct a Combustion Analysis: For the highest level of safety, a technician can use a combustion analyzer. This device samples the flue gases from the oven and burners to measure levels of carbon monoxide, oxygen, and carbon dioxide, confirming combustion is clean and complete.

The peace of mind that comes from a professional sign-off is invaluable. It provides a definitive, expert confirmation that your effort to convert a natural gas cooker to LPG has been a complete success. It is the final, reassuring chapter in a long and technical story, ensuring that your appliance, a centerpiece of your home, is ready to serve you safely and reliably. This aligns with the expert advice to always consult with licensed professionals to ensure a safe and effective solution gasfitternearme.com.au. This final step reflects our commitment to quality and safety in all appliance-related matters.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I convert any natural gas cooker to LPG?

No, not all cookers are designed to be convertible. You must first verify compatibility by checking the appliance's user manual or the data plate on the cooker itself. If the manufacturer does not explicitly state that the model is convertible and provide a specific conversion kit number, you should not attempt the conversion.

Is it safe to do this conversion myself?

If you are mechanically inclined, meticulous, and follow all instructions and safety protocols to the letter, it is possible to perform a safe conversion. However, because it involves working with flammable gas, the risks are significant. If you have any doubt about your ability to perform any step correctly and safely, the wisest and safest course of action is to hire a qualified and licensed gas technician.

How much does an LPG conversion kit cost?

The cost of a manufacturer-certified conversion kit typically ranges from $25 to $100, depending on the brand and complexity of the appliance. While "universal" kits may be cheaper, they are not recommended due to safety and performance concerns. Always invest in the official kit for your specific model.

What does a proper LPG flame look like?

A properly adjusted flame on an LPG cooker should be stable, quiet, and predominantly blue. It should have a distinct inner cone of a lighter blue and an outer cone of a darker blue. A small flicker of yellow at the very tip of the flame is generally acceptable, but a lazy, large, and mostly yellow flame indicates a problem with incomplete combustion, which produces soot and dangerous carbon monoxide.

Will my cooker's performance change after the conversion?

If the conversion is done correctly using the proper kit and all adjustments are made, the cooker's performance should be identical to its performance on natural gas. The BTU output for each burner is designed to be the same regardless of the fuel source, provided the correct orifices and pressure are used.

What happens if I use an LPG cooker with a natural gas supply?

If you connect a cooker set up for LPG to a natural gas supply, the flames will be very small, weak, and may not stay lit. This is because the small LPG orifices will not allow enough of the low-pressure, low-energy natural gas to pass through to sustain a proper flame. It is not an immediate fire hazard like the reverse situation, but the appliance will not function correctly.

How do I find a qualified technician for this job?

You can find a qualified gas technician by searching online for "licensed gas appliance installer" or "gasfitter" in your area. Look for professionals who are certified, insured, and have experience with residential appliance conversions. You can also ask for recommendations from your local propane supplier or a reputable appliance store.

Conclusion

The journey to convert a natural gas cooker to LPG is one that travels through the realms of chemistry, physics, and meticulous mechanical practice. It is not merely a task of swapping parts but a holistic process of understanding, respecting, and correctly calibrating a system to handle a more potent form of energy. From grasping the fundamental differences in energy density and pressure between methane and propane, to the rigorous confirmation of your appliance's compatibility, each step builds upon the last. The physical acts of replacing orifices, adjusting the regulator, and fine-tuning the flames are the tangible manifestations of this understanding. Yet, the entire endeavor is held together by an unwavering commitment to safety, epitomized by the final, non-negotiable leak test. While the procedure is within the grasp of a skilled individual, the gravity of working with combustible fuel means that the option of professional verification, or hiring a professional for the entire task, always remains the wisest choice for ensuring absolute safety and peace of mind. A correctly converted cooker is a testament to precision and care, ready to become a safe, reliable heart of the kitchen once more, whether it's a new model from a selection of modern LPG cookers or a trusted older appliance given a new life.

References

Cheshire Boilers. (2025). Can you convert a natural gas boiler to an LPG boiler? What you need to know. cheshireboilersnorthwich.com

Gas Fitter Near Me. (2024). Can natural gas heaters be converted to LPG?. gasfitternearme.com.au

Industry Kitchens. (2025). How to convert commercial stove from natural gas to propane. industrykitchens.com.au

Kagla. (2024). Fuel conversion from natural gas to LPG – Solutions to the NG shortage problem. kagla.co.jp

Shivgas. (2025). Differences between LPG gas and natural gas. shivgas.com